Pictures from the first stages of the degree show "Synthesis"
Emily's TechStyles
3D woven, knitted and laser cut textiles intended for interior accessories.
Wednesday, 25 May 2011
Monday, 16 May 2011
Originally, I worked with a black and white colour palette to enable the bold, graphical designs of my jacquard work to stand out. As the project developed after Christmas pinky colours, reflecting the coral theme were introduced alongside the original palette. This was a result of both market research into colour tend forecasting and a wish to introduce colour that would depict the concept further than black and white could.
Inspiration...
A collection of woven and laser cut textiles intended for interior accessories. Inspired by the Great Barrier Reef, the ocean and the movement of waves, the collection plays with 3D structures and the fall of light. A personal fascination with the sea, that has inspired previous design projects lead to the development of my third year design concept. Specialising in weave, the collection is made up of mainly Jacquard and Texel woven samples and is highlighted by carefully selected laser cut and machine knitted pieces.
Statement of Practice:
Statement of Practice:
The Barrier Reef.
The brief: To create a collection of woven and laser cut textiles intended for interior accessories. Taking inspiration from the Great Barrier Reef , The Ocean and the movement of waves. A personal fascination with the sea, that has inspired previous design projects, lead to the development of the subject.
Jacquard work within the first semester focused on bold, graphic and organically shaped designs. These were mainly derived and inspired by ink mark-making – a technique used strongly within the Visual Studies module.
It was primarily decided that a neutral colour palette would be used due to the graphic nature of the designs. It was thought that this would enable them to stand out and create a greater impact. These bold designs were often balanced using delicate embroidery to take away the “harshness” and create depth and character within the pieces. It also enabled a high end/ bespoke look to be achieved.
As the project developed in the second semester, pinky colours, reflecting the coral theme were introduced alongside the original palette. This was a result of both market research into colour tend forecasting and a wish to introduce colour that would depict the concept further than black and white could.
After researching architectural textiles in the second semester, the desire to develop depth and 3D effects within the collection transpired. This involved using different techniques in order to echo the shape and form of sea urchins. It was also decided that the Jacquard lacked the techniques to create the desired 3D effects that the Texel hand looms could achieve, and so as a result the collection would incorporate a large selection of hand woven samples. Double warps were used to achieve pleats and padded sections whilst thick textured yarn was used to create texture and depth.
Wool for felting, elastic and wire were also experimented with within hand woven samples, in an attempt to mimic waves, the organic shapes of coral and sea urchins. It was then decided to use all the methods in order to create a range of textures and effects. This 3D development was also taken into the Visual Studies sketch book work.
Grillon - a low melt multi filament yarn which enables bonding was also discovered through the experimentation of yarn. On applying steam the yarn forms a glue and on cooling sets to a solid state. Knitting peak-like structures with this particular yarn and applying steam enabled diaphanous 3D results to form. Developing this innovative technique, lead to concepts which are unique within the world of textiles. The individual look achieved when using these various yarns has in turn become a key role in the branding of the collection and ensures that it stands out from the crowd.
With previous experience in designing fabric for interiors, and with the yarns chosen for the collection being fairly thick and unusual, the samples were designed for the intention of interior home accessories. Initially the collection was intended for high street interior purposes but after developments through experimentation and due to the unique look of the samples it was decided that they would be more suited for the bespoke/ high end market, for example Liberty of London, Designers guild or bespoke pieces.
Movement and ‘fall’ of fabric played a key role when designing laser cut pieces within the collection. Taking a stronger inspiration from the movement of water, organic shapes and playing with how light hit and ‘flowed’ through the pieces lead to falling and cut-through designs.
With the nature of the end market, the finish and look of the fabrics was paramount. Washing, cutting and pressing therefore took a role just as vital as the design process itself.
Skills gained and developed whilst studying at level 6: becoming a more confident user of Jacquard Designer and using a wider range of skills and techniques, can now set up single and double warps on the Texel single handedly, have gained knowledge of technical weave structures which has been taken into the final collection and a strong eye for colour and trend. Having developed personal abilities from those of a student to those of an independent designer, both designing and making processes have become second nature. All these skills gained are transferable when entering a textile design related job and will aid all future projects.
If more time were given the 3D element of the project would be explored further along with more experimentation with colour and texture.
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